Full-fashioned knitting machine



l5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed July 10, 1946 L 1 E- J Pica-45- INVENTOR Mon/1 m 4 si l April 1, 1952 M. JEFFREY FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE Filed July 10, 1946 13 Sheets-Sheet 2 Plus--5- INVENTOR TTORNEY l5 Sheets-Sheet 3 F11 July 10, 1946 INVENTQR FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE Filed July 10, 1946 13 Sheets-Sheet 4 Fla--5- INVENTOR April 1, 1952 M. JEFFREY 2,591,659

FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE Filed July 10, 1946 13 Sheets-Sheet 5 PIE--5- I NVENTOR llonir Jflrey April 1, 1952 X M. JEFFREY 2,591,659

FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE Filed July 10, 1946 15 Sheets-Sheet 6 t INVENTOR BY r0 ffze z RNEY April 1, 1952 M. JEFFREY FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE 13 Sheets-Sheet 7 Filed July 10, 1946 INVENTOR Mon/2W0 April 1, 1952 M. JEFFREY FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE 13 Sheets-Sheet 8 Filed July 10, 1946 RNEY April 1, 1952 M EFFREY 2,591,659

FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE Filed July 10, 1946 13 Sheets-Sheet 9 F 1 190' o Q INVENTOR April 1, 1952 M. JEFFREY 2,591,659

FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE Filed July 10, 1946 15 Sheets-Sheet 10 F l E- IiD INVENTOR April 1, 1952 M. JEFFREY 2,591,659

FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE Filed July 1C, 1946 i5 Sheets-Sheet ll F112- -lil- INVENTOR BY RNEY April 1, 1952 M. JEFFREY 2,591,659

FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE Filed July 10, 1946 E 1 E5- .E5. Z96 ,22

15 Sheets-Sheet l2 INVENTOR 110 J BY m /m effigy Patented Apr. 1, 1952 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE FULL-FASHIONED KNITTING MACHINE Montroy Jeflrey, Philadelphia, Pa., assignor to Textile Machine Works, Wyomissing, Pa., a corporation of Pennsylvania I Application July 10, 1946, Serial No. 682,651

24 Claims. (of. 6689) l The present invention relates to fashioning mechanism for full-fashioned knitting machines and more particularly to fashioning mechanism for use in single unit machines adapted to effect certain improvements in the heel portion of full-fashioned stockings.

The fashioning heads, so-called narrowing heads, of full-fashioned knitting machines, include two threaded spindles, one for positioning the stops for the yarn carrier rods and one for moving the combs on which the fashioning points are fixed. Many variations of fashioning mechanism for full-fashioned knitting machines have been developed. Some of those proposed for use in single unit stockings, however, are complex and contain alarge number of parts due to the fact that certain commercially desirable forms of heel construction in single unit stockings require a number of different routines of the fashioning spindles. The more common form of fashioning operation involves a rotative movement of said spindles in the narrowing direction sufiicient to move the end stops and points both a two needle distance that is, twice the distance between next adjacent needles, while other forms of fashioning operations adopted for narrowing as wellas for widening a considerable number of forms of heels for single unit stockings involve a rotative movement of the comb spindle sufficient to move the points a single needle distance only but a rotative movement of the end stop spindle in each direction sufficient to move the end stops a two needle distance at alternate movements of the comb spindle.

The reason the end stops are moved a greater distance than the points in single needle fashioning operations is that the yarn carriers, of ordinary construction, may only be stopped above dividers which are spaced in alternate relation with the sinkers and are therefore spaced a distance equal to twice the distance between the adjacent needles. Therefore, while it is desirable to move the points a one needle distance either in the narrowing or widening direction, the end stops for the yarn carriers must be moved a distance of two needles to always stop the yarn carriers over a divider.

Also, a feature incorporated in full-fashioned knitting machines is the auxiliary or pull-back pawl for the point comb spindle which normally moves the comb spindle idly a one needle distance immediately following certain of the fashioning operations of the points. Means is also provided to control the time and length of opthe mechanism shown in Fig. 3, with 2 eration of the pull-back pawl according to th fashioning pattern desired.

It is accordingly an object of the present invention to provide a fashioning mechanism for full-fashioned knitting machines adapted to move the spindles in a wide variety of fashioning routines and which shall be simple in construction and operation.

Another object of the invention is to provide a simple, economical and convenient means'for controlling the operation of the end stop and point comb spindles to move through a two needle distance at each fashioning operation or to move the point comb spindle through a single needle distance either in the widening. .or narrowing direction and the end stop spindle only in alternate movements of the point comb spindle. l

A further object of the invention is to provide means for operating the end stop and point comb spindles for fashioning the fabric in one or two needle steps and for idly moving the point comb spindle immediately following certain of the single needle steps.

A still further object of the invention is to provide means for operating the end stop and point comb spindles in narrowing and widening directions to fashion the fabric'and including means for idly moving the point comb spindle during alternate fashioning operations.

With these and other objects in view, which will become apparent from the following detailed description of the illustrative embodiments of the novel fashioning mechanisms shown in the accompanying drawings, the invention resides in the novel elements, features of construction and arrangements of parts in cooperative relationship as hereinafter more particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings: I

Figure l is a diagrammatic illustration of a flat knitted blank for a novel form of single unit full-fashioned stocking which may be made by mechanism within the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a detailed view on an enlarged scale of one of the heel portions of the blank shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is an end elevational view of a fullfashioned knitting machine having a form of fashioning or so-called narrowing head within the invention, parts being omitted for purposes of illustration;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged view of a-portion of the parts shown in different relative positions;

Fig. 5 is an elevational view of the mechanism shown in Fig. 4 as seen from the right of said figure;

Fig. 6 is an elevational view of the mechanism shown in Fig. 4 as seen from the left of said figure;

Fig. 7 is a detailed viewed of a portion of the mechanism shown in Fig. 4 but with the parts in diiferent positions relative to Fig. 4;

Fig. 8 is a view similar to a portion of Fig. 7 but with the parts shown in different relative positions;

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 8 but showing the parts in difierent relative positions;

Fig. 10 is a detailed plan view partially in section of certain of the parts shown in Fig. 7 as viewed in the direction of the arrows Il0.

Fig. 11 is a detailed plan view similar to Fig. 10 as viewed in the direction of the arrows ll-ll of Fig. 9;

Fig. 12 is a detailed view of certain of the mechanism shown in Fig. 4, showing the narrowing pawls for the end stop and comb spindles and means for controlling them during two needle "and single needle narrowing operations, parts being omitted and parts being shown in section for purposes of illustration;

Fig. 13 is a view similar to Fig. 12 but showing the parts in different relative positions;

Fig. 14 is a front elevational view of a portion of the mechanism shown in Fig. 3 showing a control means for the'spindle operating pawls;

Fig. 14A is a detail view showing a portion of the machine adjoining on the right the portion shown in Fig. 14.

".Fig. 15 is a detailed view partially in section taken along the line ll5 of Fig. 16;

Fig. 16 is a plan view of parts as viewed in the direction of the arrows l6--l6 in Fig. 14, certain parts being omitted;

Fig. 1'7 is a sectional detailed view taken substantially on the line ll-fil of Fig. 16, looking in the direction of the arrows;

Fig. 18 is a view similar to Fig. 1 of a further form of full-fashioned stocking blank which may be produced by mechanism within the invention;

'Fig. 19 is a detailed view on a much enlarged scale of a heel part shown in Fig. 18;

Fig. 20 is a detailed view similar to a portion of Fig. 19 showing a diiferent arrangement of lace openings and fashioning marks in the lower portion of a heel part from that shown in Figs. 18 and 19 and as made by mechanism within the invention;

, Fig. 21 is a view similar to Fig. 4 but showing ,a' modified form of mechanism from that shown f 23 is an elevational detailed view of a portion of Fig. 21, the parts being shown in different relative positions from those in Fig. 21, parts also being omitted for purposes of illustration;

' Fig. 24 is a sectional detailed view taken substantially on the line 24-44 of Fig. 23 looking in the direction of the arrows; and

.Figs. 25, 26, 27, 28 and 29 are elevational detailed views looking from the left of Fig; 23 of a portion of a control means and showing the parts in positions assumed in different parts of a control cycle.

In the drawings and description, only the means and method necessary to a complete un- Textile Machine Works, Reading, Pennsylvania,

2. Three Catalogs entitled-The Reading" Full-Fashioned Knitting Machine Parts Catalog --published and copyrighted by the Textile Machine Works, in 1929, 1935 and 1940, respectively.

3. Booklet entitled-The Reading High- Production Full-Fashioned Knitting Machinewhich form a supplement to the above noted 1940 Parts Catalog of the Textile Machine Works, and which Booklet is a publication of the Textile Machine Works, and was copyrighted by the latter in 1940.

'4. Pamphlet entitledKnitting Machine Lectures-published by the Wyomissing Polytechnic Institute, Wyomissing, Pennsylvania, in 1935.

The full-fashioned knitting machine and'particularly the fashioning apparatus shown in'Figs. '3 to 17, inclusive, is for forming stocking blanks of the type shown in Fig. 1, while the fashioning apparatus shown in Figs. 21 to 29, inclusive,

is to be employed principally in making stockin blanks of the type shown in Fig. 18, both apparatus, however, being adaptable to make other forms of full-fashioned stocking blanks.

In both forms of apparatus within the invention, there are two threaded spindles in a fashioning head, one for moving the end stops and one for moving the point combs, and means whereby said spindles may be turned in eitherdirectionas desired. The end stop spindle is moved always in two needle steps, and the comb spindlein either two needle or single needle steps when loops are transferred in the narrowing direction, in single needle steps only when loops are transferred in the widening direction and in two needle steps only when makin idle movements in the widening direction. Further, the two needle idle steps of the comb spindle may be prevented when desired after certain of or all narrowing operations and certain widening operations or may be permitted only during narrowing operations and prevented during widening by the hereinafter described control means forsaid comb spindle. Also, a simple and convenient manually controlled means is provided whereby the narrowing pawl for the end stop spindle may be thrown out of action at alternate loop transferring movements of the comb spindle whether or not the comb spindle makes idle movements in the loop transferring cycles. Moreover, means are included for throwing out of action the widening pawl for the end stop spindle at alternate loop transferring movements of the comb spindle.

Referring more particularly to Figs. 1 and 2, 30 is a fiat single unit full-fashioned blank for a stocking assumed to have been knitted on a machine equipped with the mechanism shown in Figs. 3 to 17, inclusive. Blank 30 comprisesa top part formed of a welt 31, preferably of the two ply type, followed by an upper leg portion having narrowing or fashion marks 32. Below the narrowings 32 is a leg part 34 having parallel selvages and part 34 is followed in turn by a lower leg part having lines of narrowing or fashion rowing combs.

marks 36. Below the fashion marks 36 is an ankle part 38 having parallel selvages below which is another part having parallel selvages and containing the high-heel reinforcements 40.

The reinforced area extends from the high heels along both sides of the blank to the toe, the line 4| indicating the inner edge ofthe reinforcement. Immediately below the high heel parts are heel parts 42,- which also are of reinforced fabric, and immediately following these latter are parallel sided parts 44. Following parts 44 are parts having gusset narrowings 46. Followin the narrowings 46 is a part 48 having parallel selvages and the reinforced edges of which form the sole, while following the part 46 is one having lines of toe narrowings 50 extending substantially to the lower end of the stocking at the tip of the toe, which is shown as having a group of ravel courses 52 extending therefrom and provided to facilitate looping the course at the tip of the toe.

The structure of the heel parts 42 is best understood from Fig. 2. Parts 42 are formed by widening the fabric by means of the fashioning points and then narrowing the fabric after sufficient width of fabric has been attained. Widening operations are performed in parts 42 in every other course and each widening operation of the points steps out the edge loops a single needle distance. Lines of lace openings 56 are formed along the inner edge of the widened heel parts 42. As mechanical considerations require that the end stop spindles move two needles each time they are operated while comb spindles move only one needle in widening, the selvages are built out at the desired rate of one needle every other course by operating the end stop spindles only half as often as the comb spindles. The lines of lace openings 56 are thereby also kept parallel to the selvages and closed selvages are formed, both considered desirable features. When the heel parts 42 have been widened to the desired degree, they are then narrowed. In the form of heel shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the narrowing is performed in a single course, preferably the next one after the last lace openings in the lines 56. 'After said single course has been knitted,

the knitting is interrupted while a considerable number of single needle narrowing operations are performed on the fabric, forming lines of fashionv marks 58 in a given course. To so interrupt the knitting and to form the lines 58, a series of buttons 51 is arranged on the patterning means, including a known form of chain 59, so that the cam shaft 12 will be shogged to cause a series of fashioning cycles to be performed in succession, all in the given course in which it is desired to make lines of fashioning marks, to make a very substantial reduction in the width of the fabric at the given course, the apparatus being set at this time so that the single needle narrowing means is in operation and the pullback pawl hereinbefore referred to intersperses idle two needle widening movements between single needle narrowing movements of the nar- The means for determining the time the pull-back pawl operates and causes a two needle outward or widening movement during each narrowing cycle will be described in detail hereinafter. ing the formation of lace or widening marks 56 are also shown in Fig. 14A.

In making the lines 58, the fashioning points are moved inward one needle in loop transferring movements and then immediately moved out-.

ward two needles in an idle or non-transferring Some of the buttons 55 governoperation, cycles of single needle loop transfer-- ring inward movements and two needle idle outward movements of the combs being repeated as often as necessary to obtain the amount of narrowing desired at end of the heels. It should be observed that in the forming of the narrowed fashioning marks 58, the point combs are initially started at the further inward point and then worked outwardly in the manner herein prescribed.

The fashion marks in lines 58 being formed by single needle narrowing movements, it has been found desirable that the fashion marks in lines 32 and 36 also be formed by single needle movements, whereas the fashion marks in the lines 46 and 50 can be formed by the more usual two needle narrowing movements. Therefore, the machine employed is desirably of a type adapted to carry out both-single needle and two needle narrowing and it is set to make all single needle narrowings from the beginning of the blank at the welt to the end of the heels and is then reset to make all two needle narrowings as far as the end of the toe.

The end stops are moved in two needles in alternate narrowing operations while forming lines 58 so that the end stops substantially keep pace with the inward movement of the edge loops of the course throughout. After lines of fashion marks 58 have been formed, one or more courses are knitted and the end stops then manually racked in to points corresponding to the selvage edges of the parts 44. At the same time that the end stops are manually racked in, two additional yarn carriers are brought into operation to lay yarn to form two groups of ravel courses 60 outlooped together. The last toe course having also been looped, a stocking is formed from the fashioned blank 30 in the usual way by connectin its edges by a longitudinal seam, running from the toe to the heel loopings and from the heel loopings to the top of the welt, the resulting seam lying at the back of the stocking. The resulting stockin has been found to fit well and to be capable of manufacture at a high rate of speed by a mechanism involving only such differences from a known mechanism as can be incorporated therein without making extensive changes in the original parts.

Referring to Figs. 3 to 17 inclusive more in detail, 70 is a transverse frame member of a multi-section full-fashioned single-unit knitting machine in general of the well known Reading type. A main cam shaft 12 of said machine is journalled in a framework of which said member 1!! forms a, part and has fixed thereon various cams for actuating the knitting elements such as the needle bars, the sinkers and dividers as wellas means for controlling them in making knitted fabric. A fashioning means or narrowing head, the left .end of machine being shown,

the fashioning means, also receives its actuating impulse from shaft 12.

The fashioning means shown includes a comb spindle 14 having a screw threaded portion 15 appearing in Fig. and a nut I6 on said portion I5 whereby, when spindle I4 is turned, the spindle moves the nut along the axis of the spindle, so that an arm 'II projecting upwardly from the nut correspondingly moves a narrowing rod I8 on which is fixed a comb, not shown, holding a plurality of narrowing or fashioning points. It isunderstood that only one nut 16 and one narrowing rod of the usual mechanism is shown in order to illustrate and describe the present invention. Said rod is mounted for longitudinal and dipping movements relative to the needles of the machine. The loops are picked off the needles by the points when they are dipped and, when the rod I8 is shifted by movement of spindle I4 and nut I6, and the points dipped again, theloops are placed on needles other than the ones from which they were lifted. This is a fashioning operation but as most such operations involve transferring the loops in the narrowing direction, the part of the machine on which the rod I8 is mounted is commonly known as the narrowing machine. As the form and operation. of the narrowin machine are well known and do not need to be altered in order to cooperate with the novel features disclosed,

the narrowing machine has not been shown herein.

The narrowing head as shown also includes another threaded spindle, indicated at 80 (Fig. 6), whose function it is to move end stops 8|, which determine the throw of yarn carrier rods (not shown) and which are mounted on a nut I9 on the threaded portion of spindle 80 so as to be moved longitudinally of the axis of the spindle when the spindle is turned.

The spindles I4 and 80 are turned in the direction to narrow the fabric by pawls 82 and 84 respectively, best shown perhaps in Figs. 4, 12 and 13, which are pivoted at the outer ends of levers 86 and 88 journalled respectively on the spindles I4 and 80. Said pawls are biased (by the usual means, not shown) toward ratchet .wheels 90 and 92, respectively, fixed on the spindles so that, unless the pawls are prevented a .from functioning, the spindles are turned each time the pawls are raised from the positions shown in Figs. 4, 12 and 13. The spindles I4 and 80 are turned in the direction to widen the fabric by pawls 94 and 96 respectively. Pawls 94 and 9B are pivotally mounted on an actuator 98 and are biased toward ratchet wheels I00 and I02 respectively so that, unless the pawls are withheld from operating, the spindles I4 and 80 are turned each time pawls 04 and 96 are raised from the levels at which they are shown in Figs. 3 and so, that it never gives the spindle I4 a movement greater than a single needle per cycle. The left end of the machine being the one shown in the drawings, the spindles I4 and 80 turn clockwise in narrowing operations and counterclockwise'in widening operations.

For reciprocating actuator 98 to cause the spindles to be turned properly by their narrowing and widening pawls, the actuator has a downwardly extending arm 99 which rests between strokes of the actuator on a bolt I00 fixed to the transverse frame member I0. 99 near its lower end at I09, is the rear end of a lever I08, the forward end of which is pivoted to the transverse frame member 10 at H0. Intermediate iis ends, lever I88 carries an axle III on which is journalled a roller type cam follower H2. During knitting cycles of the machine and cam shaft I2, the plane of follower H2 lies between that of a cam H4 fixed on shaft I2 and that of a cam H6 also fixed on the shaft so that the two cams can turn with the shaft without affecting the roller. As is well understood, the cam shaft 72 is shogged or shifted to the right when viewed from the front of the machine, as in Fig. 14, at the beginning of each cycle in which the points in the combs are used for fashioning. If the follower H2 is not shifted on its axle at the time the cam shaft shifts, cam H4 is brought into the plane of the follower and the cam acts to raise actuator 98 and thereby the pawls pivoted thereon or thereto. Either the narrowing pawls or the widening pawls are permitted to act when the actuator is operated by cam H4 but only the widening pawls when the actuator is moved by cam H6. So long as the fashioning points in the combs are to act on the loops, follower II 2 is held fast in the plane in which it is shown in Figs. 14 and 16 by an off-set portion (not shown) which lies in a groove H5 in the hub of the follower, ofi-set portion being integral with a plate H? which is shown in dotted outline in Fig. 16 and which is removably fastened to the underside of lever i08 by a screw H9. If it is desired to operate spindles f4 and during knitting rev olutions, in which the cam shaft I2 is not shogged, plate II"! is removed from lever I08 and follower H2 is shifted on its axle in the same direction that the shaft I2 shifts when it is shogged for carrying out a fashioning cycle so that the follower H2 moves into the plane of the cam H6 and actuator 98 is raised by this cam, the shifting of follower H2 being caused by means described hereinbelow.

For controlling the narrowing pawls and the widening pawls to act with the cam H4 or H6 respectively as desired, means are provided including plate cams H8 and I20 on spindles I4 and 80 respectively, said plate cams mounted to turn on the spindles near the ends of the latter in planes at right angles to the axes of the spindles. Cams H8 and I20 are connected by a link I22 the ends of which are pivoted to the cams so that the two cams must swing together when they are moved around the spindles. Cams H8 and I20 are so formed and the length of link I22 so adjusted that, when the cams are swung clockwise as viewed in Fig. 4, the camming edge of cam I20 contacts a roller I24 on pawl 84 to hold the pawl in a position preventing it from engaging its ratchet wheel. At the same time pawl 82 is similarly disabled by a connection with pawl 84 furnished by a link I26 shown in Figs. 4, l2 and 13 and which is pivotally connected to both the narrowing pawls, conveniently as shown at points below their pivots. Pawls B2 or 04 may be moved together away from the ratchet wheels and 92 respectively, by means of the link I26 or the pawl 82 may be moved away from its ratchet 90 with- Pivotally connected to arm 7,

out affecting the action of the pawl 84, due to a lost motion connection, not shown, between pawl 82 and link I26, as hereinafter set forth. When the cam I20 is in position to render inoperative the narrowing pawls 82 and 84, the widening pawl 96 is free to act on its ratchet I02 as far as cam I 20 is concerned, to give ratchet I02 a two needle movement. Cam I I8, however, is so formed that it contacts a pin I28 on pawl 94 and limits pawl 94 to a one needle movement of its ratchet even when cam H8 has been turned clockwise so as to stand in the position shown in Fig. 4.

A means for turning plate cams H8 and I20 on spindles I4 and 80 is provided which includes a link I30 connected to cam I20 through a universal joint I32 including a pivot I34 fixed to the cam as shown in Figs. 3, 4 and 7. Said turning means is so biased that link I30 stands in its lower position except during cycles involving widening movements of spindles I4 and 80, the position of the parts resulting when link I30 is so lowered being shown in Fig. 3 in which the narrowing pawl 84 is free of cam I20 and both pawls 82 and 84 can act on their ratchets, at least so far as cam I20is concerned, these positions being retained from the beginning of the welt to the beginning of the heel in stocking 30. However, as already mentioned, it-is desired that the narrowings by which lines of fashion marks 32 and 36 are made shall be single needle ones. v

For this purpose, a means is provided including a cam member or cam I36 best shown in Figs. 12 and 13. Cam I36 is pivotally mounted on spindle I4 and biased by a spring I38 toward the position shown in Fig. 13 in which a corner I40 of cam member I36 preventsthe narrowing pawl 82 from. engaging the tooth of its ratchet 90 nearest to it when the pawl begins an upward movement from its lowest position, in which it is shown in Fig. '13. The ratchet wheel 90 therefore is turned only a one needle distance under these conditions, but operates at each operation of the actuator 98. However, the ratchet 92 for the end stop spindle 80 has teeth of twice the length of those on ratchet 90. Therefore, when the actuator 98 rises and the pawl 84 starts from the position shown in Fig. 13, it immediately engages the nearest tooth of ratchet 92 and turns spindle 80 a two needle distance. In order, therefore, that the selvages shall be uniformly closed and shall remain parallel to the lines of single needle fashion marks, means is provided whereby the pawl 84 is partially disabled in the sense that it isprevented from acting on ratchet 92 at every other reciprocation of actuator 98. For this purpose, a lever I 42 is journalled on a shaft I44 carried in the frame of the machine. At its'lower end, lever I42 has journalled thereon a cam follower. I46 and the lever is biased so that its follower, so long aspermitted, contacts the surface of a star cam I48 which is rackedby apawl and ratchet arrangement I50 (Fig. 4) at each reciprocation of actuator 98. When follower I46 is on a high point of cam I48, pawl 84 is free to turn spindle 80 by engaging a tooth of ratchet 92 as will be clear from Figs. 12 and 13 but when follower I46 is on a low point of cam I48, lever I42 is turned by a spring I52 so that the upper end of lever I42 presses a lug- I54 on pawl 84- to throw the pawl away from its ratchet wheel and spindle 80 is thereby maintained idle until an,- other reciprocation of the actuator causes. a high point of cam I48 to act on follower; I46, .whereupon, cam I20 permitting, another two needle to turn the spindle I4 a one needle distance.

When the fabric. has been knitted to the instep line and widening is to be performed, and, as explained above, the widening movements of spindle I4 being always only single-needle and the widening movements of spindle being always two needle, it is required that the widening pawl 96 be inoperative during alternate reciprocations. For the purpose, just recited, there is employed a lever I56, shown in Figs. 3 and 4, pivoted between its ends on the same axis as lever I 42 and having at its lower end a cam follower I58 adapted to contact the cam I48, a.

spring I60 connectedv to the lower end of lever I56 being utilized to effect normal engagement of the follower I58 and cam I48. Followers I 46 and I58 are so arranged with relation to cam I48 that the follower I46 is on a high point of the cam I48 when follower I58 is on a low point of such cam, this relation being shown in Fig. 4. When follower I58 is on a high point of cam I48; lever I56 is held to the left of its position as shown in Fig. 4 and pawl 96 is free to act on ratchet I02 to turn the end stop spindle in the widening direction a two needle distance. When follower I58 is on a low point of cam I 46, lever I56 is held in the position shown in Fig. 4 and in which pawl 96 is prevented from acting during one reciprocation of the actuator 98 and a corresponding single needle movement of spindle I4 due to widening pawl 94. The levers I42 and I56 are therefore prevented from interfering with each other. By the action of lever I56, pawl 96 turns end stop spindle 80 a two needle distance only every other single needle movement of spindle I4 caused by widening pawl 94.

As is clear from Fig. 6, plate cam I20 lies ina plane behind the plane of movement of lever I42 so that the roller I24 can be made short enough to permit lever I42 to pass in front of it when the lever moves to contact lug I54.

In addition to the pawls already mentioned, a pawl. I62 is shown pivotally supported on actuator 98 and adapted to act as a pull-back pawl; that is to say, when it is desired to give the comb spindle an idle movement in the widening direction after a narrowing movement, the pawl I62 is employed. In the stocking blank shown in Figs. 1 and 2, pawl I 62 is used only in making the lines of fashion marks 58 at the lower ends of the heelparts. However, this invention is not limited to using the pawl I 62 to make lines of fashion marks in single courses or to using it only in narrowing operations; Pawl I62 which is designed to act upon the downstroke of the actuator and on the widening ratchet wheel I00 of comb spindle I4 is mounted, as shown, on the opposite side of spindle I4 from pawl 94, pawls 94 and I 62 being connected by a spring I64 which biases them both toward the ratchet wheel I00. Pawl I62 is so proportioned that it gives spindle I4 a two needle stroke at each downward movement of actuator 98 provided the pawl is free at the time'to act on the ratchet I00. As shown in Figs. 3 and 4 of the drawings, pawl I62 may be prevented from acting on the ratchet I00 at any 11 time desired by a pin I66 which is mounted on a throw-over lever I68 (Figs. 10 and 11) pivoted at I10 on a bracket member I12 having a collar portion fixed to the link I22 and having horizontal surfaces on each side of pivot I10 a little longer than the lever I68, so that pin I66 rests on member I12 and at about the same level whether it is thrown over toward the spindle 80, and to the left of its pivot, as it stands in Figs. 3, 4 and '7 or toward spindle 14, to the right of its pivot, as it stands in Figs. 8 and 9. In either position, pin I66 is held down against an upper edge of member I12 by a throw-over spring I14 which is fixed at one end to pin I66 and at its other 'end to a point on member I12 directly below pivot I10. The pin I66 projects from lever I68 at both ends so that it can be used as a handle atone end to throw over the arm I68 from one position to the other and extends into the plane of pawl 162 so that it contacts the pawl when pin I66 is in its position nearer the stop spindle 80, its left position as viewed in Fig. 4, to disable the pawl by holding it away from its ratchet I'during widening, as shown in Fig. 4, and during narrowing as shown in Fig. '1. Pin I66, however, does not hinder the operation of pawl-I82 when the pin is'inits position as shown in Fig. 8' whichever position the cams H8 and I'20iare in. 'In this connection, it will be seen that, "when making lines '58 in a blank such as 30, the-link I22 and pin I66 stand normally in the positions shown in Fig. 8 and that, when the pin-is in this position and an operation o'ccurs'to cause the pawls 82 and 84 to turn the spindle 14 and8-0 in'the narrowing direction, the pin I66 permits the pawl I62 to fall into en-' gagement with its ratchet to turn comb spindle 14-a two needle distance on the downstroke of the actuator. The arm I68 is moved from its active position, shown'in Fig. '1, to its inactive position, shown in Fig. 8,-at the end of lines 5601? lace openings'andis again returned to itsposition, shown in'Fig. 1,- at the completion of lines 58 offashion marks. Y

These are theonly times the pawl IE2 is manipulatedin making the blank 30 on the machine show-n'in Figs-3 to 1'7, inclusive. -It is desirable to set the pattern chain to stop the machine at the end of lines 56 so that the arm may be moved to its inactive position. Further, at the to aposition in which it limits spindle 14 to single needle narrowing movements. However, it is desired to turn spindle" at times two needles per narrowingmovement to form the narrowings 46 'and' in the blank30, Fig. 1. To this end, a bell crank lever I16 is provided pivotally mounted on a stud I15carried in the frame 10 and having a vertical arm I11 and a horizontal arm I19. As best shown'in'Figs. 12 and 13, the upper end of the vertical arm I11 of lever I16 carries a member I8I which is adapted toeng'age'a shoulder I18 of cam I36. The weight of the horizontal arm I19 of lever I16 biases it to the position shown in Fig. 13 in'which the member I8I has noeffect on cam I36 and the cam is therefore held'by its spring I38 in a position in which the cam limits narrowing pawl 82 to turning spindle 14 single needle distances. In this position, a pin or lug I80 on the upper 1 of plate cams- I I8 and I20.

12 branch of a loop at the free'end of the horizontal arm I19 of the bell-crank lever I16 rests on a low point of a cam portion I82 of a hand wheel I84 which is pivotally carried on the shaft I44. If the hand wheel I84 is turned from its position shown in Fig. 13, in which position the pawl 82 is limited to single needle turning movements of the spindle 14, to the position shown in Fig. 12, in which the lug I engages a high point of cam'portion I82, the lever I16 is turned to move the corner I40 of cam member I36 out of the path of movement of the pawl 82. In this position the pawl 82 moves the ratchet two teeth and therefore the spindle 14 two needles per upstroke of the actuator 98. I

At the same time that cam I82 turns lever I16 to move cam I36 out of the path of pawl 82, it raises a lug I86 on the loop at the free end of the horizontal arm I19 of lever I16 into engagement with a contact piece I88 which is adjustably mounted in a lug rigid with and projecting from the lever I42 to hold lever I42 in the position shown in Fig. 12 in which the lever is spaced from the pin or lug I54 and therefore cannot affect the narrowing pawl 84 which makes an effective stroke of two needles at each upstroke of actuator 98. As is clear from Fig. 12, the position of lever I42 when held by lug I86 is the same in which the'lever is held by a high point on cam I48.

After the toe of the blank has been cast off, the handwheel I84 is turned to move cam portion I82 into-the position shown in Fig. 13 for the next blank.

The link I30, by which the plate cams H8 and I20 are turned on spindles 14 and 80 to control the pawls 82,84, 94 and 96 to cause them the turn spindles 14 and 80 in the desired directions when the actuator 98 is to -be reciprocated. extends downward as shown in Figs. '3 and 14 and at its'lower end linkI30 is connected to the free end-of a horizontal arm of a bell-crank lever I90, shown in Fig. 14,-by means of a second universal joint I92. Bell-crank lever I90 has an arm -I93 (Fig. 15) which is pivotally connected by a link I94 to a coupling member $96 fixed to arod I98 at the rear of the machine. As is evident frcm the drawing, the position of rod I98 determines the position of link I30 and therefore Except when widening is to be performed, rod I 98 is in its right hand position as viewed in Figs. 14 and 16 and the link I30 in its lower position in which the widening pawls 94 and 96' are held inan ineffective position and the narrowing pawls 82 and 84, so far as plate'cams I I8 and-I20 are concerned, are free to turn spindles 14- and 80. Except during widening cycles of the machine, rod I98 is held in the position shown in Figs. I4 and I6 by means including a spring I99 which biases a collar-204, to the right asviewed in Fig. 16, into engagement with one arm 202 of abell-crank lever 200, Fig.

15. B'ell-crank-lever 200 also has anarm 206 which is connected by link 208 and universal jointsat eachend thereof to the rear end of a lever 2I0 pivoted on a shaft 2I2 (Fig. 17) carried in a bracket 2| I on the machine frame. Except in widening cycles, the front end of lever 2I0 is held elevated against the tension of a spring 2 I4by an arm 2 I6 which is pivoted on the frame and normally held beneath the forward end of lever2l0 by a-rod 2'I8 (Fig. 14) controlled by a-patterning means, shown in Fig. 140.. A high point on acam 220 on shaft 12 contacts a roller type follower 222, journalled on lever 2| 0, at each 13 revolution of shaft I2 to relieve the arm 2I6 of the pressure of the lever 2I0 caused by spring 2I4. Except when arm 2I6 is moved by rod 2I8,

however, as soon as the high point of cam 220 moves out from under follower 222, the front end underthe influence of spring 2 I4, the rear end of lever. 2I0 is raised and with it arm 206 of bell crank lever 200 whereby the arm 202 of lever 200 is moved so as to move rod I98 to the left as viewed in Figs. and 16. The link I30 is thereby raised to swing plate cams H8 and I clockwise as viewed in Figs. 3 and 7, the movement of link I being imparted directly to cam I20 and from-cam-l20 to cam II8 through the link I22. The narrowing pawls are thereby prevented from acting and the widening pawls permitted to act to move the spindles as the actuator 98 is raised except when pawl 96 is held away from its ratchet by lever I56. When again the high point of cam 223 passes underneath roller 222, the arm 2I6 is returned to the position, shown in Fig. 14, and in which it sustains lever 2I0, rod-I98 being returned to its initial right-hand position by the spring I99 assisted by the weight of link I30.

g-ular position. The means by which said stop pawl 236 is lifted and released at the proper times to permit spindle 80 to be turned and then stopped includes a finger or lever 240 which is pivoted ona stud 242 on an arm 244 also fixed t0 and movable with the lever 88. Said finger 240, as shown, lies between arm 244 and pawl 236 and the finger has a lug or pin 231 which is held in engagement with the edge of arm 244 by a spring 238 (Fig. 6) to hold the finger rigid with the arm when the pawl 236 is to be lifted, a pin 246 adjustably fixed in pawl 236, so as to extend toward the finger 240, engaging a lateral extension '24I on finger 240 to lift the pawl as the finger rises from the position in which it is shown in Fig. 4. Pin 246 and the extension 24I of finger-240 become disengaged after the pawl 236 has-been lifted to a certain height to permit the'pawl to drop onto ratchet 92 to stop it at the desired time. Said pawl 236 and associated actuating means forms no part of the present invention and is not claimed herein.

The pawl 236 also has an arm 245 whichis connected by a bolt 24! to a link 249. The link has a slot 25I therein whereby a stem of a bolt 248 may slide in the slot to provide a lost motion connection between the link and the pawl 84. With this arrangement bothpawl 84 and stop pawl 236 may function in the manner hereinbefore set forth without interfering with the operation of the other. However, when it is desired to manually reset the spindles, the pawl 84 is When, however, rod I98 is shifted to the left to lift link I30, its movement may be utilized to also shift the follower II2 so that the widening cam I I6 on cam shaft I2 will operate lever I06 and actuator 98 instead of the narrowing cam H4, cam' II6 operating at different points in the revolution of shaft I2 than cam II4 as is clear from Fig. 3 and also during the couliering of the yarn instead of a nar'rowing operation of the machine. For so shifting follower II2 from rod I98, the plate III having been removed to permit it, a lever 224 is pivoted on the frame at 226,- lever 224 having its rear end extended down between two collars 228 and 229 fixed on rod I98 near its left end so that as rod I98 moves to the left as viewed in Fig. 15 to lift link I30, the rear end of the lever 224 also moves to the left and the front end of lever 224 moves to the right. As the front end of lever 224 is forked and embraces the edge of follower II2 as shown at 230 in Fig. 16, the rightward movement of the front end of lever 224 shifts follower I I2 into the plane of the widening cam II6. However, when widenin'g by points, collar 229 is left free on rod I98 so that it exerts no pressure on lever 224 and therefore will not shift the follower II2.

Due to the timing of the action of the widening'pawl 96 when the cam I I6 is employed, which occurs during the couliering of the yarn, together with the positive lifting of a locking plunger 232 from an indexing dial :234 by means of a cam 233 (Fig. 6) secured to and movable with the lever 88, there is danger that the spindle 80 may over-run, particularly when the carrier rod strikes its end stop. To prevent such over-runhing action a stop pawl 236 is provided, for engagernent with the ratchet 92, which is pivoted on a. shaft 239, commonly provided in the "Readingi type full-fashioned knitting machine, and which is released at the proper time from the ratchet 92: before pawl 96 has finished its upratchet 92 to stop the .spindlein the proper anmanually moved to the left of its position shownin Fig. 4 which action also raises the stop pawl 236 out of the path of the teeth in the ratchet 92 during such resetting movements.

A blank 250 which is also within the invention is shown in Figs. 18 and 19. Blank 250 is the same as blank 30 so far as the welt, the upper leg narrowings, the lower leg narrowings, the gusset narrowings and the toe narrowings are concerned. The same reference characters have therefore been applied to said leg, gusset and toe narrowings in Fig. 18 as in Figs. 1 and-2.. Heel parts 252 are shown in Fig. 18, however, and form parts of blank 250 :which are of quite different construction from heel parts 42 of blank 30.

Like heel parts 42, parts 252 have gore lines formed by lace openings 251, said lines having reference characters 254 thereon. The lines 254 have the same inclination to the walewise direc-..

tion for. the first part of their length as have the lines 56, the individual lace openings in both sets of lines being spaced from those next to them by single plain courses and each being caused by single needle outward movements of wide combs moving the edge loops outward to widen the fabric by one needle at each selvage and without any other fashionings in said first parts 'of heel parts 252, so. that said first portions of lines 254, like lines 56, are parallel to the selvages. In the latter portion of heel parts 252, however, lace;

openings are made only every third course instead of every other courseand single needle narrowings are made in every course, causing by reason of a particular routine to be presently de-; scribed, the lace openings to be all in a single Wale in the latter portions of thelines 254." At,

the course in heel parts 252 at which narrowings are first performed, the selvages change directions. forming vertices 256 of angles in the selvages. The lace opening in Fig. 19 indicating lace openings in lines 254 falling in the course passing through said vertices is numbered 258. The widening cycle in thecourse containing lace 

